Byblos

At the dawn of history, Byblos was just a sleepy fishing village on the sandy shore where the Lebanon Mountains came down to the Mediterranean Sea. This was the first home of the Phoenician people. World-famous cedars of Lebanon grew on the sides of these mountains and provided not only excellent wood for boats but also something valuable to trade with others, particularly the Egyptians.

Byblos (Βύβλος) is the Greek name of the Phoenecian city Gebal (earlier Gubla). It was named Byblos by the Greeks, because it was through Gebal that papyrus (bublos; Egyptian papyrus) was imported into Greece.

It is a Mediterranean city in Lebanon under the current Arabic name of Jbeil (Ǧubayl) and was also referred to as Gibelet during the Crusaders. It is believed to have been founded around 5000 BC and was built by Cronus as the first city in Phoenicia. Today it is believed by many to be the oldest continuously-inhabited city in the world. Byblos is approximately 42km North of Beirut. It has over 7,000 years of history and has moved through many a hand, which has shaped various parts of the ancient city.

In its time, Byblos was conquered by Alexander the Great, snatched by the Romans under Pompey, briefly ruled by Constantinople followed through to the Arabs and was then taken by the Crusaders. With the departure of the Crusaders, Byblos continued under Mamluke and Ottoman rule as a small fishing town, and its antique remains were gradually covered with dust.

This gives you only a small idea of what the city has been through and the effect that this had on its architectural remains. It is stunning city of ruins that you can almost picture in it’s glory. The most beautiful part of the city for me were the remains of some of the Roman built columns and the unfinished Amphitheatre which backs on to the Mediterranean Sea. There is much more that I can tell you about the city, but it honestly is one of those things that you must see for yourself.

Phoebe and I spent an hour walking through the old Souks (markets) which ran through cobbled streets and were open to customers through old wooden doors and enthusiastic Lebanese stall holders. We ate at a small Lebanese restaurant in the square which is lined with restaurants of a few varieties including some French and some western. We only spent half a day in Byblos, and it certainly needs more time than that. I’ll get some photos next time and surely I’ll have learned more about the beautiful and ancient city.

I believe Phoebe must have learned a valuable lesson on the way home however. We were waiting on the streets of Jbail for a bus to take us home and a man started speaking to us and letting us know that buses would be coming however, considering it was a Sunday it may take a while. He wanted to be friends and other than telling us that he wanted to take photos of us for casting for a production company that he was freelancing for he also wanted our phone numbers and to go out for coffee. He was quite genuine, but perhaps not our cup of tea, however he did offer to walk us up to the freeway where there was sure to be more buses. He was trying to be helpful in getting Phoebe across the freeway and had his hand on her elbow, which is something she really dislikes. In an attempt to get away from him she jumped across a ledge and straight into a drain hole which she thought had a metal grate (however in Lebanon most things aren’t done properly and you can never assume anything). It was really rather hilarious except that she did gash her knee. Unfortunately I don’t have a photo but the memory will serve as a hilarious part of my history.

Crepaway's Big Hens Night Out

If you’ve even been to a Hen’s night in Australia, you will know that it probably involves a group of women going out on the town, with some dressing up and a few games to play across the night. Here in Lebanon, Hen’s nights are a somewhat different experience.

I went out for dinner with my neighbours Nadine and Sabine to a place called Crepaway whose motto is “Come As You Are”. It is part of a chain that operates all over Lebanon. They are usually large venues (this one had a mezzanine level for functions also) They have food and a bar and after 10pm it sort of turns into a nightclub. So, we’re eating dinner and I can see this girl all dressed in white with a veil and Nadine tells me that it’s her hen’s night and that it’s tradition for all the girls in the party to dress in chosen theme colours. Which I believe were red and black. That’s all well and good. Until loud blaring Arabic music comes on and the Hen walks in from the front door of the restaurant, followed by her team of almost Halloween dressed friends who are doing the Lebanese trill and making a full entrance parade of the whole thing. Never in my life have I tried so hard not to laugh at someone. They then took a series of photos, at which point Nadine suggested that I should go get a photo with the girl. I thought she was nuts, but apparently here, it’s all about the ego, and people love it when you want to take a photo with them. So indeed a got a photo with this girl, and as you will see (once I get a copy up here) I was almost laughing. The whole thing was rather absurd, but again a most interesting experience in learning what to do and not to do when having a Hen’s night.

Music Hall

So I went out on the town with a couple of friends of mine a little while ago to this place called Music Hall. Knowing that I’m a musician they wanted to take me somewhere to see some live music and seems this place is one of the best in the Middle East. It was a very different experience from any other live music event I’ve been to but here goes.

So here in Lebanon, for most places that involve a show, or even to go to a Nightclub, you need to book a table. That in itself is a rather strange concept, however it seems to work for them. The Music Hall building is a converted cinema and is really quite big and well decorated. Imagine…double the size of the Night Cat in Fitzroy – with a huge stage, couch booths and tables and chairs on the floor. It works as a $50 minimum spend. You basically get a bottle of Vodka between 4 people for your money and the rest pays for the show. Don’t forget the small bowl of mixed nuts also. Bargain right?!

The stage has a large red theatre curtain and before any of the music starts for the evening (which is at about 11pm) there is a DJ playing a random assortment of new dance tracks, traditional Lebanese songs coupled with a random selection of songs from the best of 1992. The way the night works is that an act will come on for 10-15 minutes, play a couple of songs, then the stage curtains close and the DJ will play for another 20 minutes before the next act comes on. There were probably about 8 or so acts, all ranging through different styles of music. Most of the songs that they play are either covers of western songs or of famous Lebanese songs. There was a young Lebanese woman who came out and sang a cover of ‘Hit the Road Jack’, followed by a young woman who sang Christmas songs in French, which was terribly painful considering you get barraged with horrible Christmas music anywhere in Lebanon before and even now after Christmas has come and gone. They have a house band that includes Drum (kit), Guitar, Bass, Keyboard, Horn Section and a Middle Eastern percussion section. They rotate and or change depending on the acts and when the Cuban act was on, it was mostly Cubans playing in the band. There was also a Yugoslavian Gypsy Brass band which was sensational – and some Cuban rap. Included in the night was a couple of old Lebanese guys who look like your grandfather singing traditional songs that the crowd were most happy to sing along with.

The crowd was a mixture of young and old people and because this show only changes once every 5-6 months, it’s not the kind of place that you go to often. The audience were right into it and mostly because they knew all the songs. It wasn’t really about musicianship and great music as much as it was about nostalgia and singing along. I guess you would kind of call it a showcase evening – and sometimes it felt almost like cabaret! The acts are all signed to the production company that runs the venue and they’re not allowed to play anywhere else besides Music Hall – and the show nights are fri-sun.

It seemed like very strange concept to me coming from Australia where we have original live music on every night of the week and bands aren’t obliged to be part of any company to play anywhere. I’ve since realised that as much as I wanted to play a gig while I was here, there isn’t a market for that sort of things. The people here, when they go out, mostly want to hear songs that they know. There isn’t a wealth of music culture here and although there are a few jazz bars and the like, the majority of music is played by a DJ. So I guess I won’t be playing a gig here, which to be honest, I’m not really too fussed about, especially knowing that it wouldn’t be appreciated for what it is.

All in all it was a very interesting experience. I danced for a lot of the night with my friends. Had 2 drinks out of the supposed bottle of vodka that I paid to share with others (mixers are added as extra to the bill) and went home at about 3.00am.

My next door neighbour Sabine was out with us and was driving me home from Beirut when we got stopped at a Hajez (military stop) and were subsequently asked by the soldier who waved us down if we’d had a big night. Now, in Lebanon there aren’t any drink driving laws – there are also speed limit signs on the road that no-one really looks at – so, suggesting to any driver that they may not have had a big night is almost an insult around here. My friend replied with “Of course we’ve had a big night” to which he smiled and waved us on. I told her that if she even attempted that joke with a cop at a booze bus, that he would have breath tested her and not have thought it was funny at all. I also suggested that next time we get pulled over in a situation like that, it should have gone something like this…

Officer: “Good Evening. Have you ladies been out drinking tonight? ”

Passenger: “Well, we have, but we haven’t had a lot to drink.”

Officer: “Maam, I’m afraid you’ll have to get out of the car and have another drink before I let you drive home”

Take Off and Landing

Airport

When I got to the Airport, it made me realise how far I'd come in my journey to

get overseas and start this

Adventure. I remembered taking both Phoebe and Hilary in the previous months and walking up through the bridge between the car park and the airport terminal (which is one of my favourite parts of Melbourne Airport) i was filled with excitement. I was looking forward to sitting down and having a drink with my friends and cousin before I left, and getting

to savour the moment. However, in true Jessica Moussi fashion, it wasn't to be that simple.

I was checking in for my one way ticket to Lebanon and the lady asks if i have an onward ticket from Beirut. Of course i didn't, i hadn't any idea that, that was necessary. I mean really, when you think about it, most people are trying to get out of Lebanon to go and live other places, not trying desperately to get residency there. This meant that i had to purchase a $1800 (fully refundable) ticket from Beirut to Melbourne just to get myself on to my booking of my flight there was something that I had inadvertently missed. I can definitely say it was a bit of a stressful experience, but i didn't really mind. I figured that if that was the way that my Adventure was going to start then so be it.

I said a teary goodbye to my good friends and my beautiful cousin and off i went through to Customs and to rush to get to my flight in time. I ran down to my gate and had about 10 minutes til boarding time. I thought that I'd finally get a chance to sit down and relax before i got on the plane, but that was also not to be. I had left all my jewellery at the scanners, so i had to run as fast as my legs would take me just to get them back and then get to my flight in time.

Most of the flight was as is usually expected for a 14 hour flight. Long, and increasingly

uncomfortable as the hours pass. I sat next to a Belgian woman who i briefly spoke to about her son and him living in London and where i was going. Besides that, nothing too exciting.

We arrived at Abu Dhabi Airport at about 6.15 am - just enough time for me to lose my head,

forget my jacket in the overhead locker and wait for an hour and a half for my next flight. I bought a giant cup of coffee for about $6US which only helped my sleepy state a little. I must say that with the lack of sleep and feeling a bit disorientated, i did pass two Bedouin men in one of the Duty Free shops and almost thought they were statues until i remembered that i was in the UAE and they were perfectly real.

I then got a truly Middle Eastern bus transfer to the next plane. The bus went left and continued driving for about 10 minutes and then did a u-turn, drove all the way back and across the other side of the tarmac for another 10 minutes until we finally reached the plane. I did think for a minute that the bus driver was attempting to drive us to Beirut he was taking so long! But Abu Dhabi looked stunning in the morning light and i was glad that i was now only a few short hours away from being home. I got a couple of hours decent sleep because I had two free chairs next to me.

Arriving at Beirut airport, I didn't have any hassles getting in to the

country and in fact I didn't even have to pay for a visa - I spoke to the officer in Arabic and explained where I was from which perhaps was why he didn't charge me anything. I walked out to see my beautiful mother and childhood friend who lives across the hall from us waiting for me. It was so surreal to be there with them but I was enjoying every moment. And so it began.

Anything goes in Lebanon, including smoking at the airport - or anywhere for that matter. Amongst all my other little mishaps during my flight over, i couldn't just have it be 2 things, i had

to add a 3rd. In all my excitement in getting to Lebanon and seeing my Mum, I left

my laptop at the table that we sat at. I'd been holding all my things and knew what I had, but once everyone else picked my things up, it unsettled me. It took me a day to even realise that I didn't have it, and we phoned the airport to see if they had it, and fortune was with me. Someone had found it and handed it in. I don't think i'll be doing that twice!!

The drive home is the introduction that any traveller should get when coming to Lebanon. They drive on the right hand side of the road. There are

no rules. If there are 3 lanes, they may be extended to 4 or 5 at the will of the drivers on the road. You may overtake at any time, from any side, at any speed. Beeping is an essential part of the process, for without this, you won't get anyone's attention. We nearly died about 7 times, but i'm pretty sure that they like it that way here, because that happens nearly every time you go out on the roads.

I drove up the road on my own a couple of days later to go pick up some passport papers and that was enough to last me a little while. It was a scary experience and generally speaking it had nothing to do with the other drivers on

the road. After all, I am Lebanese and i have it in me to drive like they do. It was the switching sides of the roads and not being used to the dimensions of my mum's car that got me. I nearly hit a guy walking near the church I was passing (on a Sunday) because I ducked into the right too much, but we both survived and I got home in 1 piece. I might attempt this driving thing again, i'll be sure to post again about how it goes.

Our home in Lebanon sits on the Mediterranean in a little village called El Bouar. There is a beautiful and open view of the sea from our balcony and in a storm you can see the water crashing up against the rocks threateningly as if it's saying that it could swallow us whole if it wanted. Most mornings it is very calm and if there aren't any clouds it is just magnificent.

In the last week, I've been out and done some great things. I went up to the property that my mum has been building up in the mountains of Lebanon. It is absolutely stunning up there and we spent

most of the day picking potatoes that mum had planted with another guy from around the area. Our maid Elyssou came up with us as well and helped out. In Lebanon, it's not uncommon for families to have maids. I will say that it took me some time to get used to the idea and to work out how I felt about it. I have come to realise that she is happy with us and lives a good life here. She comes from Madagascar and her family are very poor. She's very sweet and has a lot of cheek. Very willing to learn other languages and she makes my bed, and tidies my room which I'm still not used to - however I'mvery appreciative and there's something special about her that I can't put my finger on. I feel like there's a reason she's with our family. She has spark in her personality, she's not just a robot like some of the others, and sometimes it even feels like she's my little sister.

Other than all these things, I've done a lot of eating of wonderful Lebanese food and spending time with my mum at home and relaxing. We've been out a few times, and i've been out clothes shopping which is an entirely different experience to Australia. Wages in Lebanon are very low, and a lot of people working in shops seem to be unhappy. I know it seems like a generalisation, and I still

have time to see if I am wrong. They don't ask if you need any help, or if they can do anything for you. They generally stare at you blankly as if to say "what do you want" and until you say something, they don't really bother. Usually though, if you smile at them and make an effort, they smile back.

The weather hasn't been too cold so far, but there have been lots of storms and rain so I haven't been out a whole heap yet. Phoebe will be here in a week and I'll have a lot more to share very soon.